Friday, November 18, 2011

Surf Log - 19th Nov 2011

I'm doing this as an exercise to see if it yields anything interesting for myself.  What I'm doing is recording the surf I was in, and what the charts were doing at the time.  Theoretically I should be able to predict what the conditions are going to be like to go surfing.  This is especially important because some of the locations take a long time to drive to.

Surf Log:  Surfed at Avalon.  Chest to Head high occassionally said the report.  The reality was pretty close, but more like Waist / Chest to Shoulder high.  Fairly uncrowded on spot I chose.  Got long rides.  Wind was SE but break could have tolerated S.   Wind was moderate, and worked out fine.  I thought it was going to be blown out.  Forcast we moderate (15 kts) SE all morning.  Worked out a bit different (see below).

Swell was 3meters falling rapidly to 2m.

Here's the wind chart.  I surfed between 9 and 11:30am.
Tide went from 1.8m down to 1.3m over the session.  I noticed around 10am the reefs started to show and the waves got suckier and easier to catch.
Personal Notes:  Got about 8 decent rides, between 50 to 150m long, lefts from 3rds.  Total asshole out there was tring to tell me to move to another break because this was for SUPs only.  I ignored him and continued surfing.  He snaked me one time too.  His mates called him the Hog.  Fat pr*#k.

Visual Journal:  Here's some photos and video from the day.  Taken about 10mins after I got out ~ 11:45 am.
(video link if not shown: Surf Diary on YouTube)