I'm doing this as an exercise to see if it yields anything interesting for myself. What I'm doing is recording the surf I was in, and what the charts were doing at the time. Theoretically I should be able to predict what the conditions are going to be like to go surfing. This is especially important because some of the locations take a long time to drive to.
Surf Log: Surfed at Avalon. Chest to Head high occassionally said the report. The reality was pretty close, but more like Waist / Chest to Shoulder high. Fairly uncrowded on spot I chose. Got long rides. Wind was SE but break could have tolerated S. Wind was moderate, and worked out fine. I thought it was going to be blown out. Forcast we moderate (15 kts) SE all morning. Worked out a bit different (see below).
Swell was 3meters falling rapidly to 2m.
Here's the wind chart. I surfed between 9 and 11:30am.
Tide went from 1.8m down to 1.3m over the session. I noticed around 10am the reefs started to show and the waves got suckier and easier to catch.
Personal Notes: Got about 8 decent rides, between 50 to 150m long, lefts from 3rds. Total asshole out there was tring to tell me to move to another break because this was for SUPs only. I ignored him and continued surfing. He snaked me one time too. His mates called him the Hog. Fat pr*#k.
Visual Journal: Here's some photos and video from the day. Taken about 10mins after I got out ~ 11:45 am.
(video link if not shown: Surf Diary on YouTube)
