Friday, February 3, 2012

Surf Diary 2

Surf Log:  Thurs after work. I knew the cylcone swell was coming in, and to my delight - lines forever coming from a fresh NW swell, unblocked by Rotto.  Surfed at Isolators/Seconds.  Waist / Chest to Shoulder high.  Fairly crowded - I guess the word got out that the cyclone swell would be coming in.  Got long rides.  Wind was SE.  Wind was moderate, and worked out fine.  Bit of rain.

Swell was 1meter rising - but in a cyclone swell I have found it's random what you get - you just have to go look.

Personal Notes:  I love cyclone swell!!!! Got about 10 rides in 1 and a bit hours, between 50 to 150m long, lefts and rights.  A big pack of uni students from the US out there getting in the way, but they were fun, so I just surfed around them.  Got my leg caught in another guys leg rope, nearly got hit by one of the uni students, and in the end got smacked in the lip by my own board. Blood coming out so it was time to go home.

Here's the graph.  Surfed between 5 and 6:45pm.  

Visual Journal: Taken about 2mins after I got out ~ 6:45 pm.  There were lines forever.  Everyone got wave after wave after wave.  Went down the next morning early and it was all gone :(  New swell coming in over the weekend.  Should crank again, but from the SW this time.
(video link if not shown: Surf Diary on YouTube)